Over the weekend I applied the final coat of polyurethane to a small. Dear Lacey: I assume that you have a polyurethane floor, so I will base my answer on that. -- You can collect dust or you can make dust. I’m visiting from SNAP! Lightly sand the piece that you are working with--doing so after the first coat has cured, will offer a better second finish. Apply the finish in a clean, well-ventilated area. Long story short. I am brushing on with high end brush.I let each coat dry for no less than 24 hours. If you are sanding a floor for a clear finish (some call it a natural finish) you must sand the floor at least 3 times. and I am so excited to see the Minwax booth again this year! I hope to meet you at SNAP! So you will end with a blotchy-looking floor. Hope you enjoy your weekend with your families and projects as I intend to do. I also believe that Process will take less time than trying to “Fix” what’s there now. I choose to make it. Demonstration for painters on how to fix an uneven surface or sheen caused by improper varnish application. We’re about to finish our basement and I want to really start decorating our house, so these tips will help a lot with future projects! Brush flat surfaces with a thin coat using a bristle brush. I made several of these mistakes myself including applying stain when it was too hot and not wiping off enough of the stain. So you will end with a blotchy-looking floor. ... Then they did 2 coats of Polyurethane in a satin finish. While you're coating the floor… One more thing is if your table top is not flat it has low spots trying to fill them with polyurethane is not a good idea.I know trying to explain this is little hard I learn from seeing . Will it eventually build up and look similar and unnoticeable? What do you recommend? Whether you are installing a new hardwood floor, refinishing an old one, or just keeping your existing floor looking as good as new, Minwax® has a full range of products to make and keep your floors beautiful. I’m not sure from your post, but are you calling the polyurethane “stain” or did you actually put a colored stain on the table and then a polyurethane finish over that? I live with no air-conditioning but wish to do a staining project this summer. Tip: Before use, a can of polyurethane should be stirred, not shaken. Before you can do a good job of installing wood, laminate, or any other flooring, you need a good subfloor to start out with. This is really helpful info Bruce! What is the best way to fix it? conference and wanted to say “hi”. Eyes, ears, fingers, and... Are you looking for or do you have tips to share regarding the workshop? For Me? At least that’s my going theory. Uneven Sheen. If this were shellac you could rub it out but since it’s poly the only fix is to go back to bare wood and apply uniform, even coats. Mistake #3 Using an old can of finish. Polyurethane does not only come with the easy application but it is easy to maintain too. Try using a scouring pad dipped in mineral spirits or use a sanding screen. Terms of Service last updated – posted 2013-Jun-25, 11:42 am AEST posted 2013-Jun-25, 11:42 am AEST User #479290 7 posts. Don’t be impatient — like me! Uneven polyurethane floorboard finish. a challenge, perhaps? If it works…I can document it and be happy about a learned lesson.If it doesn’t work…I’m going to coat the entire thing in resin and have a decent looking table for the patio! The table, according to the manufacturer, has a polyurethane finish (on top of a walnut veneer). We recently installed a lisbon cork floor in our kitchen and dining room. I’m pinning to consult before I do my next project! In essence, screening and recoating is comparable to the final steps in the sanding process. If your spraying it you need to let that coat flash.Before you spray another coat. It didn’t. Have you had to compromise your project... On the lathe, by the lathe: do you have questions? Read the side of the can for instruction . I am hoping to tackle re-finishing these benches this Spring when the weather is right! This is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next. Thank you for sharing your expert advice. I hope you enjoy it. The process is straightforward: sand the area, clean it with a solvent afterwards (denatured alcohol), apply polyurethane, let dry. Start fresh! If your apply by brush you need to wait eight hours and sanded in between coats. Try to blend the edges of uneven areas into lighter areas. I started putting full strength satin poly on a section of table top. "Polyurethane finishes should dry hard in a matter of hours and not bleed oil as yours is doing. Clean the floor with a soft cloth dampened with acetone if your floor still looks uneven. The better the wood preparation, the better the final result. Focus on blotchy or darker areas. Try not to sand too hard or you may go through into the stain, requiring that you re-stain the area. Latest Blog Entries | Once the stain has set, you can seal the floor to protect the finish. 4 Newbies. For superior durability and long-lasting beauty, the choice is clear — protective clear finishes from Minwax! Hi Bruce! There is no quick fix for this, what I recommend is that you have the refinishers come back and screen and coat the floor. It was gorgeous! finishing Try not to sand too hard or you may go through into the stain, requiring that you re-stain the area. Applying too much finish only results in runs, drips, or a thick layer that never completely dries or hardens. These tips are super helpful! We love working with wood and loved hearing these tips from an expert. Stains are designed to dry in the wood, not on the wood. This would account for the uneven luster when the finish dried. It doesn't look glossy, so the scratches aren't too much of a disaster, but I'd still like to fix them if that's reasonably doable. Hi Bruce! Even though you waited for the suggested amount of drying time, the surface could remain tacky. I forgot to say do not coat in section coat the hole top. Hey woodman, I’m not sure I understand your reply.To reiterate my situation:- applied full strength poly to one corner of the table.- let it dry for 48 hours- learned that I wanted to cut the poly (1:4 spirits to poly)- sanded lightly with 300+- applied 1:4 ratio poly to entire table including dried full strength section (which will obviously make the thick section even thicker…I don’t know what I was thinking)- and now have 2 very different looking sections. I used minwax quick drying polyurethane to topcoat a dining room table. Better to jut get rid of it and start over. this way when block sand your leveling your surface DO NOT sand threw the coat of polyurethane from before. Unfortunate but Enough Is Enough! It would have been easier to finish the initial application, let the finish dry for a couple of days then wet sand it down to a dull sheen with 400 grit wet dry paper using water with dishwashing liquid in it as a lubricant. Sand off the high areas or try to go full strength in the low area. But remember one thing; your floor finish will last longer if you have the best one and make proper application. Even if you wiped the poly off in the process you pushed some into the wood. To create a satin or matte finish, manufacturers add a flattening agent-- usually zinc oxide -- which disperses reflected light and cuts the gloss out of the sheen.This material collects at the bottom of the can, which is why it's important to stir well before using it. -Lacey G. from Merrimack, New Hampshire. So taking some of the advice here and combining it with part of my own…here is my plan:- sand in such a way that the difference between the new and old transition stands out.- poly the thinner area up to the border of the thick poly material.- let dry. Wood, your hand tools, you and a little know-how. Mistake #5            Dry is not the same as cured. Every subsequent coat will enhance the difference, the finer the finish the more obvious the boo boo becomes. The best method is have the floor prepared for recoating as described above, and then have a very thin coat of polyurethane applied to minimize finish build up. Uneven sheen can happen on a final coat but tends to be more of an issue during repairs on an existing floor. repeat until the transition is less noticeable.- sand it all to hopefully one thickness…or at least make it as gradual of a difference as possible.- One last thin coat of poly. I’m looking forward to SNAP too, Sarah! I am going to snap and would love the free room!!!’. I appreciate you sharing your worst mistakes because I’m fairly new to the staining world! Some places it’s really shiny and others, its very dull. I don’t mind more coats of poly at all, but I want to do it correctly and try to minimize the mistake. Brushing a rounded, contoured or vertical surface is more likely to create drips. Whereas oil based polyurethane’s require mineral spirits, naphtha or paint thinner for clean up. This is an OUTDOOR Table that’s going to be Exposed to the Elements? A plywood subfloor will bridge any minor waves in the existing floor, and leveling compound would help, too. Share your tips and challenges ... Before you pick up those woodworking tools, take the time to ensure your safety in the shop! Where surface issues are concerned, you will want to keep your resin clear of any particles or debris. ”if it was me doing this table top I start over by sanding off all the polyurethane that is on and coat with full strength polyurethane”. Otherwise your going to fiddle around with the table, trying to fix the Mess that’s there now, for a Long Time and I can almost Guarantee You it still won’t look right. frustrations? Sand it off and start over. On the top side of the floor, another fix-it idea to lay down new hardwood over the existing floor. If you are selling your work, then you have entered a woodworking dimension with added complexity and stress. This way, you will be able to add more stain, if needed. Mistake #3            Using an old can of finish. Minwax® offers a variety of easy-to-use products to help clean and repair wood that is chipped, cracked, scratched, even decayed, to its original beauty. Seeing as how you’ve now cleared up the fact that… “There is NO Stain.” on The Table. He meant to say Poly. So what can you do if it is always above 50% humidity? NO REPLIES!! When it comes to finishing furniture or hardwood floors, polyurethane is the key to protecting and preserving the stain. I know I’ve made every single one of those mistakes, but I’m starting to think I’ve never actually stained something the right way…..ha ha! Q: I recently tried my hand at finishing my new floor with Fabulon finish, with lambswool.My problem is I applied the polyurethane too thick in a few areas. What did I do wrong? Strip It, Sand It, Clean It, Full Strength Poly, The Entire Table At Once, Not Pieces. In addition, there were differences in luster throughout the floor. The solution: wipe off any stain the wood does not absorb. Mistake #4            Applying too much finish. Stain? 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